Mmmm, Tastes Like America

The fish arrived every week in the past, to be kissed by a neighborhood TV reporter. By Saturday, the acclaimed native chef Tom Douglas was working in clouds of applewood smoke, grilling waves of fillets lined in a fennel-and-garlic rub as a part of a fund-raiser.

The salmon’s arrival has been a neighborhood phenomenon for many years, he mentioned. As the primary catch of the Alaska salmon season, it’s shipped instantly to high-end Pacific Northwest eating places and locations like Pike Place Market in downtown Seattle, the place it will probably fetch $75 per pound.

The brilliant fillets are fattier than many others, owing to the necessity for the fish to retailer up power forward of a very lengthy haul up the Copper River. Mr. Douglas mentioned the fish had been elevated as half of a bigger effort to spotlight the advantages of wild-caught fish as an alternative of farmed options.

As he completed cooking up 200 parts over the weekend, Mr. Douglas observed a scrap remaining on the grill and popped it into his mouth. “There’s no reason in the world why this fish shouldn’t cost as much, or more, than a filet mignon,” the chef mentioned. “It’s perfect.”

— Mike Baker


It doesn’t seem like a lot. That’s how you recognize it’s good.

At the nook of East Carson Street and Becks Run Road in Pittsburgh, within the shadow of a concrete underpass, sits an unassuming sq. constructing that, for half of the yr, resembles a boarded-up shack. The different half of the yr, it transforms right into a magical ice cream oasis. At Page Dairy Mart, a Pittsburgh staple that just lately celebrated its 70th season, delicate serve is the delicacy of alternative. But like different mom-and-pop retailers in former industrial cities all through the Great Lakes, what makes Page’s ice cream actually, quintessentially summer time is that you’ve earned it — by means of each perseverance and a little bit of boredom.

There are all kinds of scrumptious ice lotions on the market. Texas has Blue Bell, served in grocery shops yr spherical. In New York City, you may get a cone that’s each mouthwatering and hip from, say, Big Gay Ice Cream, certainly one of many meals and leisure choices at your fingertips within the metropolis that by no means sleeps.

But nothing fairly spells summer time like making it by means of an icy, grey winter in Pittsburgh and seeing the neon lights activate at Page’s: You have made it. A cease at Page’s isn’t one thing to be hurried, or tacked onto a busy social calendar. It is the primary occasion. The days are getting longer and the nights are getting hotter and you don’t have anything else to do, so that you go. You order a twist cone with sprinkles, and it melts quicker than you’ll be able to lick it, and also you go dwelling and watch the Pirates lose on TV, and shortly, the lightning bugs shall be blinking within the evening sky. Summer has arrived.

— Sarah Mervosh

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